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4 Tips on Starting Your Vintage Jewellery Collection

Don’t turn up your nose at so-called costume jewellery! Enjoy it for the innovative, fashionable and expressive adornment it is (plus, keep it long enough and it may become a collector’s piece eventually!). If you want to start your collection then look no further because TheCluttery now stocks some vintage jewellery, carefully sourced and restored by yours truly.

An unusual mid-century flower brooch made from heat-bent plastic

I have been low-key collecting vintage costume jewellery for years, since I was first gifted some of my mom’s old jewellery as a child. I was handed a dented tin tea caddy full of fake pearls and beaded necklaces, enamelled butterfly brooches, too-big rings, broken chains and earrings without their partners. I would occasionally tip the contents out to decide which bits I could now feasibly wear and wonder at the oddities I couldn’t. As an adult, I now have a modest, but I think interesting, collection of costume jewellery which adds to my personal style and inspires my own jewellery designs.

For me, costume jewellery has always been special and here’s why: designers of costume jewellery take risks! It makes sense that if the materials you are using are less expensive (think plated metals, plastics, glass and ceramics), you are more likely to design pieces that respond to trends, are whimsical, edgy or even innovative. The history of costume jewellery is also a journey through technological innovation. Without the early plastic Bakelite I wouldn’t be making laser cut acrylic jewellery today!

Historically costume jewellery has enabled (generally) women to adorn themselves without having to clear their bank accounts.

So…if you want to start collecting costume jewellery, here are a few tips.


1) What is costume jewellery? Costume jewellery is a catch-all term for non-precious jewellery. That is, pieces made from inexpensive metals and other materials, as opposed to gold, silver and gems. It has also traditionally been applied to ‘fakes’ or copies of expensive pieces, and as such the term conjures negative connotations for some. However, costume jewellery isn’t necessarily cheap, it’s just generally less expensive than precious jewellery. Costume jewellery became very popular in the 20th century as a way for the average woman, i.e. working women without independent wealth, to own decorative pieces to accessorise their outfits without having to spend a lot. Prior to this, the average woman’s jewellery collection would have consisted of a wedding ring and an heirloom piece or two, if she was lucky.

2) Think about why you want to collect and what you intend to do with your pieces. Is it to build a collection that could one day be worth something? Is it because you love design? Maybe you just adore accessorising and don’t really care whether a piece is ‘worth’ anything? Or perhaps you don’t intend to wear your pieces at all? It’s a good idea to ask yourself these questions so you can hone your searches and set yourself some parameters. For example, if, like me, you’re simply interested in jewellery design, you’ll probably be less interested in a piece’s monetary value, which makes finding interesting pieces easier. On the other hand, if you’re after vintage high fashion pieces from the likes of Dior then your collection may have to be a small (properly insured) one! If you intend to wear your pieces you might be more interested in searching for items that would fit with your wardrobe.

Personally, I really like the idea of bringing an object back to life through usage and creating new conversations between old and modern fashion, so I always buy with the intention of wearing. Don’t be afraid to wear pieces that you consider to be heirlooms: with careful handling there’s no reason why you can’t wear them occasionally.

A 1980’s costume pearl bracelet.

3) Choose your niche. What are you interested in wearing and what’s your personal style? Maybe you want to start a collection of food-themed jewellery or glass jewellery? Perhaps you only want to wear floral designs, or 1960’s pieces? Do a little online research and choose a style or era to start your collection. Remember - it’s easier to find something rather than everything! If you focus on a niche you’ll quickly develop a sense of what you consider a good purchase and what you can ignore.

4) Start small and take your time. When you’re starting a collection of anything it’s a good idea not to spend a lot or buy huge quantities: you need time to develop a feel for what’s available, what you like and what you’re willing to spend. My advice is to start with 1-3 pieces and set a price limit. Inspect them, wear them, test them out and then decide on your next move. Building a collection should take time, it should be something you enjoy, it should become a hobby, even a passion.